Located in a building that has been a pub since the 1800s, Prohibition Taproom, 501 N. 13th St., brings together the charm of the old-timey speakeasy with the flavors of the modern gastropub — and with solid results.
Chef Val Stryjewski swings for the fences with the dishes, elevating locally sourced,
blue-collar-level concepts into some stimulating fare, without it coming off as pretentious.
The small plates at Prohibition had tons of character. The assorted pickled vegetables ($5) looked like they were fresh out of the garden of some idyllic farm, featuring a colorful crunch and a tasty assortment of carrots, green beans and red cabbage. We had no idea what rollmops ($6) were, so of course we had to satisfy our curiosity and order them. We’re so glad that we did. The classic European pub dish consisted of pickled herring wrapped around a spicy mixture of chilled, finely chopped potatoes and horseradish salad. The result was powerful and surprisingly bright with a creamy texture.
Back on the vegetarian side of the spectrum, our interest was piqued by Prohibition’s veggie Cuban ($12), which swapped out the ham for Portabello mushrooms and avocado. And while the feel might not be the perfect approximation of meat, you won’t miss it. The flavors are spot-on with an aggressive mustard that pulls no punches.
Swinging back to the meaty side of the menu, you know half the restaurants in town say they have the best burger in the city, yet a scant few of them are right and Prohibition is one of them. The Pro-Tap Burger ($14) is one damn fine hamburger that is meaty, juicy and uncomplicated with a generous helping of quality beef topped with cheddar, onions and pickles.
Hands down, the best dish we had the whole night was one of Prohibition’s specials, which we hope will become a permanent addition to the menu. The oxtail pierogi ($11), which we found out was from a recipe of Stryjewski’s grandmother, was amazing. The pierogi shells were nicely browned and buttery, the shredded oxtail filling was tender and the savory gravy that covered the dish was pleasantly complex and hearty.
Prohibition Taproom has all the visual charm of a clandestine watering hole, but in the kitchen beats the robust heart and soul of comfort food.