Good Dog delivers on good pub food

165

As Center City watering holes go, Good Dog Bar has more than enough charm and personality to match its upbeat, cozy-pub atmosphere, decorated with numerous heartwarming photos of man’s best friend. Meanwhile, the menu deftly bounces between high-minded small plates and surefire comfort food.

On a recent visit, the chorizo empanadas ($13) were flawless, stuffed with cheese, rice, onions, poblano peppers and potatoes. This dish was easily one of the best examples of the Mexican staple we’ve had in the city, with a light and crisp outer layer and the right touch of spice and complexity waiting inside.

Another well-crafted small plate was the rich, smooth duck-liver mousse ($14), which even on its own with crostini would have been stellar. Garnishes of bright, sweet apples and onions elevated the texture and flavor, adding a cool acidic crunch to the dish.

The roasted beets ($9), while tasty, suffered from having to follow the previous two dishes. This colorful, fresh serving will sit well with anyone already in love with beets. 

If it’s a hearty feast you seek to warm your bones, the shellfish stew ($20) is a must-have. The generously portioned bowl overflowed with shrimp, mussels and cod, scrumptiously seasoned with saffron, leeks and fennel. Thankfully, the serving came with a large helping of grilled bread to soak up the aromatic broth.

Sandwiches at Good Dog are also good choices. The fried-cod version ($13) was solid, if not spectacular, and was served with perfect pub-style fries. But the top dog on this visit was the Good Dog burger ($13), absolutely stuffed with a juicy beef patty, Roquefort cheese and caramelized onions.

This unassuming eatery and bar comes from good stock and is well-trained. If you crave something to wag your tail, feast your jowls on Good Dog.  

If you go

Good Dog Bar

224 S. 15th St.

215-985-9600

www.gooddogbar.com

Mon.-Sun.:11:30 a.m.-2 a.m.