It’s always nice to end the year on a classy note, and Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, 111 S. 17th St., more than fits the bill.
We see many a restaurant come and go in this city, but Davio’s, one of a handful of restaurants that share the same name along the East Coast, has built a reputation as a long-running institution in Philly. And we can see why. They aren’t trying to reinvent the wheel or create outrageous new spins with their menu, as they focus on service, atmosphere and honing classic dishes to perfection.
The Two-Minute Calamari ($14) was impressively tender with a subtle and building spicy flavor in the tomato sauce it was dressed in.
Pasta dishes at Davio’s are the picture of perfection. The hand-rolled potato gnocchi ($26) was impossibly light and velvety and the wild mushrooms and truffle oil gave the dish the perfect balance of refined flavors. The tagliatelle bolognese ($22) was a perfectly seasoned dish with braised veal, beef and pork in a rich tomato sauce. After each course, the dutiful and attentive wait staff would swarm in, refilling waters, swapping out used plates and utensils for clean ones and refolding the napkins of whomever got up and stepped away from the table.
The entrees were as spectacular as the service. The pan-seared jumbo sea scallops ($28) more than lived up to their name, as they were plump and hearty. They were almost outshined by the excellent bacon red-wine risotto and fava-bean puree that they rested on, as those elements could easily be a dish by themselves.
The sautéed veal tenderloin ($33) had an amazing depth of flavor layered with prosciutto, polenta and porcini mushrooms in marsala sauce. The veal was also pleasantly fork-tender.
If you are looking for an elegant place to dine for New Year’s, or just have an upscale night on the town any night of the week, you should definitely get dressed up and make a reservation at Davio’s.