Serving up a first course of bones and organs is definitely a bold way to grab our attention.
The Industry Bar, 1401 E. Moyamensing Ave., has a modern and moody decor and an insanely good drink menu that would seem more appropriate for Center City than the unassuming South Philly digs it occupies. But that’s just the beginning of a list of eccentricities that works in its favor.
When you take a gander at the menu, you get an idea of how adventurous the chefs are and how much of a candy ass you and your fellow diners can be. Oh sure, there is plenty of crowd pleasing (read: SAFE) fare on the menu such as vegetable alphabet soup ($5), whipped veggie tofu ($5) and the Industry burger ($8) to be had. The latter of which was perfection, seeming to know that we are weary of the overloaded gastro-bomb burgers other places like to show off, keeping things pure and simple. The veggie tofu was no slouch either: We want to serve it at our next party.
The seafood BLT (MP) is another hit with the only minor risk being that you are at the mercy of whatever seafood they decide to put into the sandwich that particular day. On our particular night it was fried shrimp. How can you lose? The beef tartare ($14) was another perfectly executed dish, flavorful and savory.
But then there are items on the menu that throw down the gauntlet, daring you to get over your pedestrian food hang-ups and dive in. But don’t let the proteins scare you, they are in expert hands. The buffalo sweetbreads ($10) had a crunchy breaded exterior and generous flavor — you could almost forget that you were eating pancreas. By the time the texture registers, you are almost done chewing, ready to swallow and beyond caring.
The bone marrow ($10) is another tasty experience in a somewhat-morbid carnivore package. The delicacy, scooped out of its hefty leg shaft, is just splendid when spread upon baguette bread, either on its own or with an excellent shallot and thyme marmalade.
The two dishes that really stood out were the lamb-neck gravy ($10) and the crispy pig-ear lettuce wraps ($6). The lamb-neck gravy felt like the best kept secret in an Italian grandmother’s cookbook. We could not stop scooping up the heaping bites of the concoction with baguette bread. Even better were the lettuce wraps with the chewy tender pieces of pig ear working so well with the crunchy and spicy shredded veggies and lettuce.
Desserts were more conventional but wonderful as well. Jon Rod’s Swiss rolls ($6) come across like a high-end Hostess Ho Ho, upping the ante an almost intimidating size and filled with chocolate chiffon and dark rum butter crème. You had us at rum. The doughnuts ($6) were perfectly warm, crisp and sugary, and then went the extra mile with homemade preserves for dipping.
Whether you like to graze like an herbivore or devour like a carnivore, The Industry Bar definitely has some plates that will excite you.