Toss all conventional expectations about Indian cuisine out the window when you visit Bindi, 105 S. 13th St. From the start of the meal, it’s obvious this BYOB, cash-only establishment is out to put a modern, playful twist on the region’s flavors.
The appetizers we sampled were a prime example of executive chef Marcie Turney’s unique vision. The duck pani puri ($10) — a hollow fried crisp filled with tasty shredded duck and topped with shaved apple and tamarind chutney — was a delight. The savory tenderness of the duck complemented the crunch of the puri and the fresh apple.
The vermicelli-crusted shrimp ($9) might have just ruined us for anyone else’s version of fried shrimp forever. The texture of the crust was exceptional, unique and should be the envy of every seafood house in the city. The lamb kofta meatballs ($9) were juicy and well-seasoned, accompanied by a wonderful bed of chickpeas and tomato curry.
Because of the close proximity of neighboring tables — and the fact that Bindi’s dishes are as much a feast for the eyes as they are for our adventurous palettes — there’s a lot of gawking at what’s going on at other tables.
And commenting such as: “Wow! What’s that dish with the big lamb shank sticking out of a bowl?”
And: “That table brought a bottle of tequila to spike their pitcher of nimbu pani (pomegranate-ginger lemonade, $12). Damn! Why didn’t we think of that?”
The entrées looked every bit as good as they tasted. Bindi’s take on a vegetable potpie ($22) was a gullet-pleasing blend of roughage packed into a nice flakey pie topped with a wonderfully fruity preserve. The absence of meat didn’t register with our inner raging carnivore at all. The curried shrimp ($24) was another winner, in a pleasantly spiced cream sauce and accompanied with lovely lime rice.
Do yourself a favor and do not skip the breads. They are essential. We had the partha potato bread ($4), a griddle bread sprinkled with sea salt and accompanied by a house-made raita, a spiced yogurt condiment. It was tender, warm and tasty.
We really tried to escape without dessert. We really wanted to. But when the time came, we caved. The Indian spiced chocolate mousse ($7) was decadently dense and rich. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the chai float ($6) was subtle yet powerfully addictive. Given our editor’s weakness for chai beverages, don’t be surprised if you see her crumpled up on 13th Street with a serious case of brain-freeze. [Editor’s note: Maybe once the snow melts for good. Maybe I can’t wait that long.]
Bindi has taken the already-exotic (to American tastebuds) nature of Indian cuisine to new heights.