With the weather getting nicer outside, we wanted to see what was on the spring menus of the city’s better-known establishments. And we were gratified, as we quickly found some new favorites dishes.
We were lured to Xochitl (pronounced “so-cheet”), 408 S. Second St., because its guacamole ($8) has been proclaimed the best in the city. For the record, it featured the kind of texture and spice we love in guacamole and did not disappoint. But even if it’s the best we’ve had in recent memory, the search for the best guac in the city will soldier on.
There are far better things on Xochitl’s menu, which blends the familiarity of classic Mexican cuisine with ingredients that are well off the overly tread path of excessive cheeses and boring meats.
The cazuela de chorizo y papa ($8) was a spicy and satisfying casserole of chorizo, potatoes and kale. The tostada de tinga ($7) was also a tasty treat, piled high with chicken, avocado and sour cream.
Xochitl also whips up a damn fine ceviche. The platija (fluke ceviche, $12) had a pleasantly strong flavor, thanks to healthy portions of lime and pico de gallo. The camarones (shrimp ceviche, $13) was also a welcome surprise, with just a hint of passion-fruit sweetness wrapped in bibb lettuce.
If you get nothing else at Xochitl, you have to get the tacos, which go above and beyond the call of goodness with inventive flavors and textures. The carnitas de pollo ($10) benefits greatly from the crispy skin on the chicken. The baja tacos are even better, with marinated mahi-mahi, a subtle grilled pineapple, avocado and watercress. But the biggest surprise was the mar y terra tacos ($12), a surf ’n’ turf taco with tender braised brisket, whipped bacalao (salted and dried sea cod) and pickled fennel. The combination was tender, tasty and addictive.
We’re not proud ourselves for doing this, but when we tried the desserts — the piping-hot churros ($7) and the wonderfully creamy flan ($6), — we found that the two worked better together than apart. So when you hear on the street that we were slathering flan all over our churros, yes, we did it — and it was amazing!
Across town, we were also delighted by the romantically elegant and formal atmosphere, as well as the skillfully prepared Tuscan menu, at Il Portico, 1519 Walnut St. It may be a world away from Xochitl as far as vibe and cuisine, but both restaurants have obviously put a great deal of thought and passion into their menus.
Chef Alberto Delbello’s menu at Il Portico is first-class all the way, with an overwhelming sense of freshness in the ingredients.
The most pleasant of surprises on the menu came early with the involtini di mozzarella ($11.95), a portion of the cheese cooked to perfection and bathed in a wonderful mushroom broth and anchovies. Other dishes, such as the risotto ai frutti di mare ($21.95) and the featured pesce misto, were especially notable for the freshness and quality of the seafood. The latter was a bonanza of shrimp, swordfish, mussels, calamari and lobster, all broiled in chardonnay and topped with oregano. With that type of oceanic menagerie, it was surprising to find everything on the plate so expertly prepared and seasoned.
From the casual to the formal, both of these restaurants are not to be missed. Additionally, Xochitl is participating in Dining Out for Life on April 29.
Larry Nichols can be reached at [email protected].