With its delicate balance of dark retro décor, quirky taste in hip pop art and a sound system bumping an eclectic mix of alt-rock, ’80s new wave and classic funk, Bardot sets a cool but laidback mood for those in Northern Liberties looking to unwind in a space that is equal parts pin-up girl-boudoir and vampire parlor.
Bardot’s New American menu deliverers interesting takes on familiar concepts, making some of the dishes feel pleasantly exotic, especially the appetizer and small-plates menu.
The cure Arctic char ($9), served up with crema, avocado, cucumber and toasted sourdough bread, plays on the palette like an upscale relation to lox and bagels. The rabbit crepe ($12) was a hit with those of us who usually turn up our noses at rabbit; it was light and savory with caramelized grapes and mushrooms adding an interesting depth of flavor. The saffron dumpling gratin ($14) had a lot going on in flavor and texture. The rustic convergence of cauliflower, leeks and pine nuts gave the dish varying degrees of crunch that went well with the soft, cheesy textures of the dumplings and sauce, for a dish you cannot stop eating because your taste buds are working overtime. The octopus ($15) won us over the moment it hit the table; the bright and spicy aromas coming off the plate promised great flavor, which the dish delivered in spades. The salsa verde and chiles that spiced the dish made the perfectly cooked octopus and the potatoes irresistible.
It might seem like a waste of fine mood-setting ambiance to order a sandwich but, rest assured, Bardot makes a damned-fine pastrami Ruben ($13), taking the high road by not overloading it with meat and giving it a balanced helping of house-made Thousand Island and sauerkraut.
Bardot saves its best culinary moves for the entrées. We were drawn to the spaghetti noir ($19), with its lovely black strands of squid-ink pasta and seductively smooth sauce comprised of squid, chorizo and poblano peppers. It might sound overpowering but the sauce had a lot of finesse and only the slightest hint of aggressive heat. It definitely hit all the right spots.
Bardot also has special chef-tasting menus on Mondays and brunch menus on the weekends, so if you find yourself in Northern Liberties, and in the mood to duck off the hustle and bustle of the main drag, take refuge in Bardot.