Dettera keeps it sexy in the suburbs

If you are looking to set the right mood this Valentine’s Day weekend, you might want to trek out to Ambler to dine at Dettera, 129 E. Butler Ave.

The casual yet upscale décor of the New American restaurant fits well with the relaxed and polished suburban enclave it calls home. Definitely try and snag one of the booths lining the large windows in the front so you can watch the evening foot traffic meander up and down the bucolic streets.

The food at Dettera definitely lives up to the setting, as the menu offerings are equally refined and sexy. The tuna tartare ($15) is so full of flavor from the pickled fennel and the truffle vinaigrette that it almost doesn’t need the decadent texture of the poached egg that tops it, though it is a welcome touch. The house oysters ($16) also excite the palette with plump, raw mollusks topped with a brisk and refreshing Kaffir lime granita. The snowball-like texture of the garnish works surprisingly well with the classic aphrodisiac dish.

Dettera really gets its mojo working on the pastas, which are handmade, with locally sourced ingredients and available in small and dinner-sized portions. The hand-cut pasta ribbons ($12/$24) were rich and hearty, with braised duck leg, hedgehog mushrooms and pancetta. On the other end of the spectrum was the arugula fettuccine ($10/$20), which was bright, summery and robust with herb pesto and goat cheese.

The entrées at Dettera have a classic feel with some modern flourishes. The seared cobia ($27) was superb. The fish itself was perfection: crispy outside and steamy and flaky on the inside, while the garnishes held the dish together nicely with forbidden black rice, hearts of palm and a wonderful miso sauce.  

Dettera really doesn’t pull any punches on its dessert menu, serving up some deal-sealing confections. The bitter sweet chocolate pâté ($7) was a work of art, visually and flavor-wise. The pâté itself was pleasantly dense, giving a nice contrast texturally to the silky peanut gelato and the tiny dollops of sea-salted caramel.

Dettera definitely sets the scene for a romantic night on the (suburban) town. All you have to do is make a reservation and let the food and ambience do the rest.

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