Devils Den, 1148 S. 11th St., has the same comfortable and somewhat slick upwardly mobile vibe that a lot of South Philly gastropubs have these days. But the chefs are definitely taking some adventurous risks.
Their happy-hour snacks should definitely appeal to the drinking crowd as they hit the right comfort-food buttons. The bacon popcorn ($5) is something you try and wonder why someone hasn’t done this before. The bits of bacon mixed in with the sweet, buttery goodness of popcorn is genius and irresistible. But keep napkins handy.
The deviled eggs ($5) were unique, as they were presented vertically and with orange zest and kim chi, the latter of which, while powerfully spicy and exciting, tended to steal the thunder from the eggs themselves.
One distinctive small plate on the menu was the duck fries ($10), which we thought were going to be the standard fries fried in duck fat that, along with truffle oil, seem to be the go-to way to make the staple exotic. But we were pleasantly surprised when the Den presented us with fries smothered in savory shredded duck meat and gravy. The result, while needling a sprinkle of salt, is a decadent, rich experience that should not be missed.
Spicy dishes dominated the menu at Devil’s Den. The mussels diablo ($13, $16 over pasta) had a nice, spicy bite that mixed well with the bacon and cilantro in the sauces. The flatbread with sausage, peppers and onions ($13) was equally tasty and satisfying. By the time we got the diablo cheesesteak ($12), with jalapenos and a beer-cheese sauce, we were tasting the same spicy sting as the mussels and the flatbread. It was as if they were all flavored from the same spice shaker. And while we appreciated the aggressive spicing, the sameness across three dishes left us wanting for some nuances among them.
We were pleasantly surprised that desserts at the Den were made by the same pastry chef who made desserts for Sisters. And while the homey apple-raisin crumb pie was a nice end to the meal, we implore Devil’s Den to consider some kind of ice cream-based desserts to sooth the tongue after the spicy gauntlet it has to run.
Despite the few minor qualms, Devil’s Den has a welcoming vibe and a strong menu that will take your taste buds on a wild ride.