A transatlantic crossing on Cunard Line’s Queen Mary 2 is a voyage, not a cruise. She is an ocean liner, not a cruise ship. Cunard ships draw international world travelers, not tourists. You know what to expect on a cruise, but Cunard is not a cruise company. A world of differences awaits you on this royal liner.
For over a thousand years, humans have been traveling across the Atlantic Ocean. A relative few-thousand people a year travel aboard the Queen Mary 2. She is a large, elegant ship with an extraordinary art collection, abundant space for relaxation and a variety of venues for entertainment and fine dining.
At an average speed of 20 knots, a transatlantic voyage takes seven nights. Roughly 2,400 people are on this late-August voyage. The Queen Mary 2, a Vista Class ship, could easily hold twice as many passengers but, Cunard designed this ship for ultimate passenger comfort. With a vast amount of space dedicated to the passengers, there were always plenty of teak deck chairs around the numerous pools.
Among the many nice surprises on this trip was the large number of gay, lesbian and transgender passengers. My travel partner, Ed Salvato, editor-in-chief of Man About World, and I met a Broadway star, MIT engineers, an insurance-company president, owners of a public-relations firm and retirees. This cruise attracted several gay male couples and one lesbian solo traveler. Interestingly, among the youngest of the gay travelers was a group of professionals who bid on this trip at a Human Rights Campaign fundraiser in San Francisco. Not only did Cunard support our community with a donation, it also attracted a young group of new travelers who in turn invited other friends to join them.
Taking an eastward-passage journey with limited access to the Internet and no mobile cell-phone service could seem daunting at first. Would it be possible to disconnect from the modern world to steep yourself in Old World luxury and tradition? The answer is yes you can. What I found on this trip was that people rediscovered the art of conversation. Dinner tables were filled with laughter and thoughtful conversations — and not the distractions of modern life.
Friends of Dorothy — LGBT meeting
Unlike other cruise lines — like Royal Caribbean — that no longer publish Friends of Dorothy meetings in daily programs, Cunard steps it up a notch and adds “LGBT” to its daily FOD meeting. Every evening at 5 p.m., the FODs meet in the Commodore Lounge. The first night we met about six fellow travelers — mostly men and one single lesbian named Lois. By the second night, there were 22 men but no Lois. Interestingly, there appeared to be many more gay couples who never attended FOD meetings but nonetheless were on board with us.
What to pack
Nights aboard the Queen Mary 2 are more formal than on other cruises but are way more fun, too. From formal balls to semi formal nights, the ship’s passengers are dressed as elegantly as the ship.
Here are some tips to lighten your luggage: Pack one tuxedo. Pack one black suit and one sportscoat and one pair of slacks. Depending on the time of year, pack a sweater or a light jacket. Leave the jeans at home.
Queen and Princess Grills
Cruise lines notoriously offer small cabins to maximize space. Not here. Most of the cabins have balconies and there are a few inside cabins. Aboard the Queen Mary 2, you will feel pampered even in modest accommodations.
However, it pays to upgrade to The Queen or Princess Grill suites. These cabins feature wide balconies with teak deck furniture. The Grill cabins offer ample space, including a generous walk-in closet and plenty of drawers and storage. The large bathroom includes a powerful shower and a wide sink. The beds are very comfortable with silky white linens.
The Queen Grill cabins range in size and amenities: Some cabins have large decks overlooking the back pool. Queen and Princess Grill guests have a private dining area, priority embarkation and debarkation areas and private spaces throughout the ship, including a Grill lounge, Grill concierge and private Grill pool deck. As a Grill guest, you also are invited to special parties with the captain and complimentary sparkling wine and fruit in your cabin.
If you are traveling with friends, a great insider tip is to reserve cabins next-door to each other. There are privacy dividers on the deck between the cabins that can be opened during the day. Opening the divider will give you and your friends an extraordinary doublewide deck with private access between rooms without going into the hallway. Ed and I threw an afternoon BYOB gay soiree on our adjoining decks with 14 guests. It was a smart way to get to know a few of our fellow travelers better. White-glove service
Among the true standouts of this journey was the Cunard professional staff and the hallmark white-glove service. Throughout the ship, guests are called by their formal names: “Good morning, Mr. Guaracino.” You don’t want to carry your own luggage to the airport? Cunard will ship it (for a fee). You’d like a wine recommendation for your Todd English meal? Cunard can do that, too. Want your favorite dessert? Not a problem. One thing Cunard staff doesn’t do is harass you to buy a drink. I’ve been on many cruise lines where all you hear is, “Buy a drink, buy a drink.” The crew is attentive but not pushy.
So much to do, day and night
I have to admit, I was afraid I would die of boredom on this voyage across the sea. Seven nights, eight days is a long time for any one trip, especially a nonstop voyage.
There were daily fascinating lectures on astronomy, royalty and world affairs. There were demonstrations, behind-the-scenes tours and lots of activities. You will find places for stargazing, reading, meditation and live music. The QM2 even has a planetarium (although it was not working on this voyage). Nightly entertainment aboard the QM2 is serious business. While some liners skimp on quality entertainment, Cunard programs the ship flawlessly. Each night, there are formal dances in the ballrooms, plus entertainers and a nightclub.
The Canyon Ranch Spa is among the world’s finest spas. The gym is complimentary, with daily classes including spinning, stretching and yoga. The spa services are extraordinary. There are signature Canyon Ranch spa massages, manicures and pedicures and also acupuncture massage and Thai massage.
Fine dining is found throughout the ship. Among the true highlights is a visit to Todd English, the restaurant by the famed chef. Meals here are culinary journeys with diverse menus, enjoyed in a gorgeous space that encourages you to linger.
Great deals
If you go, it pays to plan early. Sign up for direct mail and Cunard specials online. You would be surprised at the many affordable deals and upgrades Cunard offers. Visit www.cunard.com.
Another option is to book your cabin through a tour company that specializes in LGBT travel, such as Pied Piper Travel (www.piedpipertravel.com). The advantage of booking with a tour operator organizing an LGBT group is you are guaranteed to meet others in our community.
British Airlines offers nonstop service between Philadelphia, Chicago and London. Don’t ruin your trip by flying coach: Splurge for business class. With a business-class ticket, you can also enjoy the lounge.
Ultimately, a Queen Mary 2 transatlantic voyage is an essential trip of a lifetime.
Jeff Guaracino is vice chair of the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association and author of “Gay and Lesbian Tourism: The Essential Guide for Marketing.”