With the oppressive heat of the summer tapering off considerably, Mixto’s ideal position at 1141 Pine St. , between the Gayborhood and Antique Row, makes for some pleasant late-summer outdoor dining.
The impressive selection of mojitos and other adult beverages doesn’t hurt either.
How anyone makes it to the entrées is a mystery to us. Mixto’s appetizers, for the most part, lean toward bountiful perfection. The calamares fritos (fried calamari, $12) was a pleasant surprise, thanks to attention to details like the light and crispy buttermilk batter and the excellent roasted tomato marinara that accompanied it. The trio de ceviche ($14) was even better, featuring tasty morsels of shrimp, halibut and octopus with clams. The plantains served alongside were a nice touch.
Mixto’s soups were exceptional and, while it was obvious that craft and care went into the gazpacho mixto ($6) and the sopa de frijoles negros (black bean, $5), it was a slight letdown that, given Mixto’s Cuban roots, they weren’t extraordinarily spicy. Otherwise, the soups were flawless, especially the rich texture of the black bean soup and the queso fresco served on the side.
Everything about Mixto’s Caesar salad ($8) screams homemade, from the just-right texture of the croutons to the fresh cheese bread to the healthy helping of dressing that adorns it. Do not pass this up.
If you have the endurance and wherewithal to make it to Mixto’s entrées, you won’t be disappointed. Obvious favorites like the arroz con pollo Cubano (chicken and rice, $15) — already a welcome example of Cuban comfort food — are rendered irresistible in Mixto’s capable hands with tasty pieces of Cuban sausage and Manzanilla olives. For something more adventurous, the sopa marinera ($21) provided a treasure trove of seafood corralled into a savory soup, which included lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams and mussels.
The dessert selection at Mixto was a little more restrained than the rest of the menu, which is good because the feast that precedes it leaves little or no room for any massive indulgence of sweetness. The flan de coco (coconut flan) had the perfect balance of subtle sweetness and creaminess to end a meal on a nice note. The tres leches cake came on a little stronger, but it really needed to. Cake is always an iffy proposition but this chilled, moist and creamy piece of goodness hit all the right spots, where lesser assemblages of pastry and icing often have failed.
Given the overflowing crowd we saw on a Monday night at Mixto, you might not have any choice but to dine out of doors: The neighborhood and the food make it well worth the trip no matter where you are seated.
Larry Nichols can be reached at [email protected].