With his new restaurant, Sampan, 124 S. 13th St., executive chef and restaurateur Michael Schulson seems to be on a mission to take the expectations associated with Asian cuisine and turn them on their ear. The results do not disappoint.
For starters, Sampan’s small plates are adventurous in their composition. The edamame dumplings ($9), bathed in sake broth, are a welcome departure both in flavor and texture from the usual veggie- or meat-filled versions. The cold tuna plate ($14) is another welcome surprise to the palate as the raw tuna works wonderfully with the avocado and provides a nice balance to the crunch of the puffed rice and flatbread that accompanies it.
The boldest of the small plates has to be the wonton taco ($10) filled with rock shrimp, blood orange and avocado. The powerful spices are only slightly tempered by the sweetness of the orange and the soothing quality of the avocado, so most might have to steel themselves when sampling this potent — but delicious — dish.
The heirloom tomato salad ($10) may have seemed a little bit out of place on the menu but after the aggressiveness of the wonton tacos, it was a pleasant diversion. The salad’s minimal dressing showcased the freshness of the tomatoes and generous portions of mozzarella.
On Sampan’s satay menu, the Korean BBQ beef ($10) also benefited from minimal dressing. The beef was tender and tasty, needing only a light touch of sauce and kimchee to really put it over the top. The corn ($7) by comparison was decadently, perfectly roasted with coconut butter, accompanied by a salted lime and spices for seasoning.
Sampan also offers some more substantial and traditional-leaning entrées. The shrimp pad thai ($13) is damn near perfect, delivering an excellent combination of noodles, egg, crispy tofu and a heaping amount of sumptuous shrimp. And while there isn’t the option to up the spiciness of the dish, most pad thai enthusiasts shouldn’t mind this at all.
The Peking duck ($19) was a welcome twist on the traditional dish. The tender, rich and slightly sweet duck meat is presented in a jar, served with tamarind pancakes, scallions and cucumbers so diners can assemble their own tasty mini tacos.
The dessert menu at Sampan is always changing, but I was tempted by the Vanilla-Swedish Fish ice cream. Served soft on three mini cones, it definitely delivered on its promise of tasting like its candy namesake. Other dessert options included a chocolate banana ice cream, strawberry shortcake and tapioca puddings with an assortment of toppings.
With its bold interpretations and presentation of Asian flavors, reasonable prices and convenient location in the Gayborhood, Sampan has raised the bar for Eastern-influenced dining in the city.
Larry Nichols can be reached at [email protected].