Taverns deliver tasty fare along with drinks

If you are only getting your drink on at Tavern on Camac, 243 S. Camac St., or the newly opened Beagle Tavern, 1003 E. Main St., Norristown, you are missing out on some seriously good dining. Don’t get us wrong, both are fine gay-owned and -operated establishments with tasty drinks and pleasantly cozy atmospheres. But if you’re leaving either one of these places with only a mojito buzz and a few phone numbers, you are missing out.

Tavern on Camac’s downstairs restaurant, Terra, features new American cuisine that caters to both small and large appetites. The small-plates menu features favorites such as beef sliders ($10) and the chicken quesadilla ($9), but it’s the more adventurous small dishes that really stand out.

The prosciutto pizza ($11) is a delight, with a crispy thin crust and the slight sweetness of pears complementing the tangy flavors of the prosciutto, red-pepper pesto and balsamic glaze. The lettuce wraps ($10) are another flavorful surprise thanks to spicy steak, pickled vegetables and sesame dressing. Both dishes are ideal for sharing if you are so inclined.

Heartier appetites should make a beeline for the large plates. The scallops ($21), with a red-pepper vinaigrette and polenta, were perfectly irresistible. The same could be said for the beef tenderloin, which was tender and juicy. The tenderloin was complemented — and almost outshined — by the fried mashed potatoes it rested upon. You’ll probably be less likely to want to share these, and you will also have a hard time enjoying mashed potatoes of any kind after sampling this decadent specimen.

Gay bar-hoppers now have a reason to venture out to Norristown: Beagle Tavern, opened by William “Billy” Franks of William Franks Hair Design.

Self-described as a “gay Cheers,” this newly opened piano/karaoke/sports bar has some fine talent in its kitchen. At first glance, the menu looks like the standard line-up of pub grub and comfort food, but closer examination reveals some surprising treats and homemade goodness.

It’s rare to be blown away by appetizers, but the shittake and shrimp risotto spring rolls ($7) are an absolute must-have with their savory Asian flavor. The buffalo chicken spring rolls ($5) are (slightly) more traditional but every bit as delicious.

Beagle Tavern boasts an all-you-can-eat mussels special ($9) on Thursday nights, but even if you miss that, there’s a plethora of pleasing (not to mention affordable) entrées on the menu. The meatloaf ($12) rivals the kind of mother-made examples from childhood memory. The pork Parmesan ($14) is a welcome break from the standard chicken Parmesan that can be found just about anywhere. And if you can find a better prime rib ($17) or crab cake ($18) for those prices, please let us know where that magical place is so we can have dinner and ride a live unicorn.

By the time you read this, Beagle Tavern will have started serving brunch on Sundays and, if it is anywhere near as good as the rest of the menu, you won’t want to miss it.

Larry Nichols can be reached at [email protected].

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